全英文课程教你做设计--------八度火英语区特供资料 速来围观!

rsyrsy

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八度火

Oh how I have enjoyed reading your comments!  If you're reading this, and you haven't read the comments to red. silk., you really must.  I loved the images all of you painted for me, of Christmas skirts and tops, of stockings and pillows.  Only problem is, now I'm going to have to buy about 20 more yards because I found myself nodding in agreement over every entry.  I do want that red skirt with a black beaded snowflake.  I would love the Italian smocked throw pillows.  And thank you, thank you Jeannie, for the hilarious poem.  I agree.  Thank you so much to all of you for playing.  It was good to peek into your sewing souls for a second.   
And so, without more babbling, the winner, chosen by random.org, is Karen S., who said, "Ahhhh...! It is so gorgeous! I think I would take the red silk and quilt it on the longarm and then make a jacket for my DGD. I would finish the edges with a binding and decorate the jacket front with densely hand-stitched floral embroidery...Hope to win!"  Send me your address using the contact form on the right sidebar there and you'll be quilting it up in no time!
What summed it up for all of us, I think, was Chris' comment: "I would love it."  Let's get to loving it, shall we?
Now, I'm thinking we ought to make a Christmas dress.  That's my story, and I'm sticking with it.  I'm thinking maybe two parts, a red silk dress, with a lace...overdress/jacket/shrug...something.  I love the way this gold lace looks over the top of the silk.

Also, we have those buttons.  Little gold and rhinestone buttons.  And 1/2" cover-able buttons.  (I tried to find smaller, do they not have smaller than 1/2"?)
So.  We need to know where to begin.  As always, we need to start with a silhouette.  Princess, yoke, A-line?  Any design ideas yet?  Sleeves?  Neckline?  Style lines?
Talk to me.  Let's do it.

Do you remember that toy where you took the little plastic plates for different articles of clothing and rubbed over them with a crayon to make your model wear different styles?  I loved that thing.  That's a little like what we're going to do today.  We're going to play Fashion Plates.
But first, I was asked a couple of times where I get my fabric.  At the risk of sounding like an ad, I tell you I love fabric.com.  They always have something I can sink my needle into, they're always prompt and helpful if I have a question, their prices are very decent, and their fabric is very nice quality.  I suppose they actually have some that isn't nice quality, but you can usually tell by the price.  The only problems I've encountered with them are problems inherent with buying fabric I haven't actually seen, such as the time I received a fabric with a pattern on it too impossibly huge to look anything but comical on a little child.  I sent it straight back, and they paid the return shipping.
So, when I'm shopping for fabric the first place I go is fabric.com.  (Are you listening, fabric.com?  Don't send money.  Send fabric.)
Also, the dress in the website header is a two-piece dress, with a sleeveless, yoke-style slip, with ruffles and pintucks on the skirt, and a princess-style overdress, with lantern sleeves and bustles on the sides created by running ribbons in and out of buttonholes spaced evenly from waist to hem.  And my daughter hates it.  Oh, the inexplicable taste of a six-year-old.  I may show pictures of that dress another day.
For now, however, it's Fashion Plates for us.
Your suggestions yesterday included this:

Which I would call A-line, round collar, puffed sleeved, and knife-pleated,
                                                                                        and this:




A shirtdress with a yoke seam, straight sleeves and ruffles on the sides of the placket.



My own thought when I saw these fabrics together was something like this:

A princess-style dress in the red, with a tier skirt, round or square neck, and a cap or puffed sleeve, and a jacket-y overdress of the gold net, with a ribbon to tie at the waist, several-puffed sleeves, and a cutaway hem that shows the red ruffly tier skirt.




So now, I point out with amusement, we've offered one of each silhouette.  What we need now is a consensus.  In which direction shall we go?  A-line, yoke, or princess?
Fashion plates, fashion plates.

Hello again!  Back for more fashion plates?  Okay.  If you insist!
We have just a few more design decisions to make before we can go to drafting the pattern.  This one is going to have to be quick...how many days till Christmas?



We need to decide on a neckline and sleeves.  We can do a square neckline, as at left here, or a round neckline, as at right.  (Or, I suppose, a neckline that you come up with that we all like better than either of these.)
We also need to decide on sleeves.  I have cap sleeves over there on the left, and puffed sleeves on the right.  If we do puffed, we can finish the edge of the sleeve with a ruffle or bias binding. Again, we'd all entertain another sleeve suggestion.

One more design feature I submit to you is this:

We could, if you wanted, take that middle panel and shir it all up so that just the middle front is gathered from princess seam to princess seam.  That would give us some texture in the front there, but may keep us from using the cute buttons just below the neck, since it'd be awkward to place them.  I don't know how this would look on a little girl's dress, but we can try it if you'd like.

I also was unable to find an invisible zipper for the center back, so I bought a regular zipper, and I think we'll have to do it lapped.  Which means we'll have the zipper overlap to play with, and we could add a row of covered buttons on the overlap, like they do on wedding dresses.  Just a thought there.

Okay, so what we need in order to move on is: neckline style, sleeve style, and whether we want the center front panel shirred.  After that, it's drafting for us!
Thanks,

八度火

We seem to have pretty varied ideas about our Christmas party dress, but here's what I'm hearing the most:


So we'll proceed with a square neckline, cap sleeves, and shirred front.

Again, our seven step pattern drafting checklist...
1) Waist
2) Armhole/Sleeve
3) Neckline
4) Closure
5) Style Lines
6) Skirt
7) Seam and Hem Allowance


Let's start!
Waist
We're going to do a below-waist princess bodice with a tiered skirt.  First we need to make the princess seams and lengthen the waist.  More, of course, about this in the Princess Styles lesson on the lessons page.
I've added 4" in length.
Now, I'm only going to add enough flare at the seams to ensure ease at the hips.  So I'll take a hip measurement, 24", and add 10% for ease, and end up with 26.4".  I find that the waist after the dart is removed is 23.65".  So we need to add 2.75" into our seams here.
Since we'll be adding width on each side of each princess seam and each side of each side seam, we have 12 opportunities to add width.  2.75 divided by 12 is just shy of 1/4".  So we'll add 1/4" (the little purple wedges in the illustration there) to each pertinent seam.




Armhole/Sleeve
Since we're going to be using a sleeve, we won't alter the armhole.  We're going to use a cap sleeve that's puffed just a little.  Instructions on creating the cap sleeve can be found in the Sleeve Styles lesson on the lessons page.


What we'll end up with is something that looks a little like what we've got on the top here.  I think a 2" sleeve will be adequate.  
Then we'll add a little gathering at the top by cutting the sleeve and adding a little wedge like in the bottom illustration.  
Because this sleeve has a curved hem, we'll need to face this sleeve.  So we'll need a sleeve lining pattern.  It seems to me we can use either the original cap sleeve pattern, or the one with the gathers at the cap for our lining pattern.  What do you think?  Which one ought we to use?
Today we're working on the pattern for the red (under)dress we're creating out of our red silk.  Yesterday we worked on the bodice and sleeve patterns, and today we'll start with the:
Neckline


To make our neckline the shape we want, we'll simply tape the bodice front and back together and draw it in.  Easy!

I'm lowering the neckline 1 1/2" in the center front, and 1/2" at the shoulder and center back.  

Closure
Since we're going to do a zipper in the center back, we'll just need to remember to cut the center back with a regular seam allowance.  We'll just make a note of that on the center back so we don't do anything silly like cut the center back on the fold.


Style Lines
Now we'll tackle that shirring in the center front panel.

All we're going to do here is cut the center front panel pattern several times horizontally (parallel to the waistline) and spread it to add the amount of shirring we want.  I think I'll add 6" total.
Skirt
Now we need to think about the skirt.  I find that we need 21" worth of skirt.  If we want to do 3 tiers, that means each of our tiers will need to be 7" long.  The waist of a size 5 dress will be roughly 25".  If we use 1 1/2 times the fabric in each tier as in the tier above it, we'll end up needing about 180" of fabric for our tiers.  Dividing this by the width of the fabric we're using, 44", tells us we'll need four strips of fabric for tiers.
Seam and Hem Allowances
And at the end, we'll add seam allowances to each piece.
Next time, we'll work on the pattern for the gold net overdress.  See you then!


Good Monday!  I hope everyone had a lovely weekend!
Today we'll work quickly through the drafting of the gold net overdress for our red silk party dress.  We'll start with the
Waist

I think we'll leave the waist where it is for the overdress, and do it in a yoke style.  So we won't change anything here.
Neckline
We'll lower it 1/2" in the back, 1/2" at the shoulder seam, and then draw the neckline to the waist as shown here.










Armhole/Sleeve
The armhole needs no alteration, since we're using sleeves.  The sleeve is a straight bell sleeve, the instructions for drafting which can be found in the Sleeve Styles lesson on the lessons page. Basically, we want a long, straight sleeve that we'll add...3"...I think, at the center of to create gathers.  I'll also lengthen the sleeve by 1" so that it's not pulled up quite so much by the puffs.
Closure
We're going to apply a gold satin ribbon around the waist and tie it at the center front.
Style Lines
None of those here.  It's best to keep such delicate, possibly fiddly fabric light on the seams, I think.

Skirt
We'll make the skirt in two steps. First, we'll add two inches of flare at each side seam, as per the instructions in the A-line Styles lesson.  We'll need two copies of the skirt pattern.  Tape them together at the side seam, and draw the hem of the overdress across the seam.  




Seam Allowances
All pattern pieces, as usual, need seam allowances.
Now we have the pattern for our red silk dress and our gold net overdress.  That wasn't too bad, was it?  Tomorrow it's layout and yardage estimates, and then we'll start cutting and sewing.  Cutting and sewing.  Yes.  
Have a lovely Monday!

八度火

Welcome back, everybody!  Are we ready to lay out our pattern for our red and gold Christmas dress?  Okay!


First we'll do the layout for the red (under)dress.  

We'll put the lengthened center front panel right there on the fold to start with, and then arrange the side front, side back, and back panels alongside it.  That leaves us enough room underneath to put the sleeve.
Then we need the ruffle strips and we're done for the red dress.  I find that for a size 5, we'll need 48", or approximately 1 1/3 yards.  I'd, of course, round up to 1 1/2 just to be safe.  (And give myself scraps to play with, for making, oh, I don't know, a little purse, a hair pretty, a flower pin...)
We will also need to cut a lining for the bodice, which will include a non-lengthened center front panel, side front and side back panels, and back panels.  I'm going to cut this out of some white fabric I happen to have on hand.

I had to cut my fingernails.
And I have a little pile of pins that I've set aside to be run through one of those little emery-filled strawberries to deburr them.  I know where every snag on all my sewing equipment is, because this fabric tells me.  Oh, yes, it lets me know.
Still.  Oh, so lovely.  So shiny.  So...red.
Shall we dive in?
First thing we're going to do is tackle that center front panel.

On the bottom you can see that I've run two rows of gathering threads down the sides of the center front panel.  Then I've pinned the seam together at the waistline clip, at the bottom edge, and at the upper edge.  Up at top you can see where I've pulled up the bobbin threads to make that sucker fit the side front panel.
Sewing it on both sides gives us this:

Excellent start!  See how the front neckline is all ripply?  We're going to need to put gathering threads there too.
Here, we've put the gathering threads in the front neckline and pulled up the gathers to fit the lining center front panel.

Just a little while ago I discovered that I'd been sewing and shooting all afternoon with no memory card in my camera.  Oh, do you understand the heartbreak?  I had many more pictures to show you, but they went wherever pictures go when they miss the memory card that should've been in the slot.  So I will have to tell you a couple of things instead of show you.
-I sewed the two back side panels to the two center back panels along their respective princess seams.
-After pulling up the neckline gathering threads, I sewed the shoulder seams, matching the princess seams.

This photo is from a little later in the game, but it's the shoulder seam, all the same.
Then I sewed the lining just the same way as the bodice, only sans the shirred-center-panel part.  Princess seams front and back, and shoulder seams.
Now we'll pin the bodice neckline to the lining neckline all the way around, matching the neckline corners, center backs, and shoulder seams.  Sew that, and we get:

See the clips into the corners there?  Those will help us turn it right side out.
Now what we want to do is turn it right side out, and press the lining just to the inside, so that the bodice fabric ends up being the only thing showing from the front.  Here's the lining side:

Now we have to make a choice.  If we were going to sew the sleeves "in the round" (with the side seam already sewn up), we could sew the side seams on lining and bodice separately, so that neither of them would show on the inside when we're done.  If we want to sew the sleeves in flat, however, we'll have to give up the nicer side seam.  I prefer to do my sleeves flat, and my daughter doesn't have issues with seams.  So that's how we'll proceed.
At this point we'll need to baste the lining to the bodice fabric down the center back as shown in the picture above, and baste the lining to the bodice fabric at the side seams.  Now we'll treat the bodice and lining fabrics as one piece.
Next thing we'll want to do is baste the lining to the bodice at the armhole.  But wait!

The lining is wider than the bodice at the armhole!  Remember how we pressed the lining to the inside?  Now that width is sticking out at the outer edge.  If we'd thought about it when we were designing the pattern, or when we were cutting out the pattern, we'd have removed that little sliver of lining so it'd fit here.  Since we didn't, we'll have to remove it here. Baste it together first, then trim away.
Sadder, and wiser, we'll remove 1/8" from the bottom of the sleeve lining.  Then we'll sew the sleeve lining to the sleeve at the hem:

And clip the seam allowance like mad.  I know I said I don't usually clip curves.  But there are curves and there are curves.  This is a serious curve, and would probably be hurt by a lack of clips.  One tip about clips.  If you do clip, don't use steam to press the seam once you've turned it right side out or your fabric will collapse into the little notches and you'll see those babies from the right side.  Yeah.  That'll make it look "homegrown" as my mother used to say.
Now we'll carefully turn that sleeve lining to the wrong side of the sleeve and press it gently, just at the seam, pulling it so that the sleeve and lining match at the top, and no lining shows on the right side of the sleeve.
And we'll baste across the top edge just to make sure.

Now we treat the sleeve like one entity.  There's probably some parallel I could draw here between human relationships, basting threads, and different sleeve fabrics, but just at the moment, I shall refrain.  You're welcome.
Then, because we have gathers in the top of the sleeve, we'll run gathering threads across the sleeve cap.
Here's the sleeve pinned into the armhole, with the gathering threads drawn up and the gathers packed right against the shoulder seam:

We'll sew that seam, press, finish, and turn it right side out:

Not bad!
Next time we'll finish up with the zipper, side seams, and skirt.  And I'll be sure to use a memory card.


Today at my house there's thick cloud cover and pouring rain, which means not enough light to take decent tutorial photos.  Well, at least not at my skill level.  So we'll have to finish up the red dress tomorrow, Saturday, Dec. 19.  Then on Monday we'll work up the gold dress, and squeak in the final photos just a few days before Christmas.
Since it's such a bleary, dark day, though, I thought I'd go ahead and mention one thing.  The basic patterns are undergoing a much-needed upgrade for 2010, and should be available, in their reformed state, very soon.  When they return, they'll be more accurate, easier to use, and cheaper.  All the things we need in a basic pattern we're going to love practically to death.
If you'd like to be notified when the basic patterns are available, drop me your email address using the contact form (for which you can find a button link over in the right sidebar) and I'll let you know.  To those of you who have already bought patterns, as soon as they're redone, I'll send you the upgraded sizes and styles you bought gratis.  Because I appreciate all of you so much.
I hope that all of you are having a lovely holiday season, and will see you all tomorrow.  Tomorrow's forecast: more sewing.

八度火

I have to say I'm liking the way our red dress is shaping up.  Shall we go onward?  Onward, then!
Now that we've done the princess seams, shoulder seams, neckline, and both sleeves, we'll need to do the zipper.  Deep breath, everybody...
First we'll baste the center back seam:

Now we'll lay the zipper on the center back seam and discover it's too long:

And now we'll shorten the zipper:


We'll do that by zigzagging over the zipper where we want the new stop to be, using a stitch length of 0.  Then, either tie the thread ends, or move the needle over to one side and stitch in place several stitches.  I wanted the zipper to stop a couple of inches above the waist seam.
Now, because we want a lapped zipper, we're going to take the zipper and place it on the left seam allowance, okay?  The side of the zipper coil needs to touch the basted seam.  In a center zipper application, the teeth go right on top of the seam.  For this one, the coil goes right up next to it.  

Now, with a zipper foot, we're going to baste the zipper tape to the seam allowance.  Remember to breathe.  Don't bite your tongue off.
When we get to the zipper pull, we'll just put the needle down in the fabric, lift the foot up, and weasel that baby down out of the way.  Then put the foot down and finish going up the zipper tape.

Now we're going to flip the zipper right side up and stitch that fold right up close to the zipper coil:

I should actually have folded that fold closer even than I did to that coil, as we shall see in a minute.
Now we're going to grab the free zipper tape and yank it to the other seam allowance:

Pin that, baste that, and flip the whole thing right side out so we're looking at the back of the bodice:

And we're going to put in that topstitching you see there.  From the basted seam, across the bottom of the zipper tape, and up to the top.  I realize that there are all kinds of tricks to make the perfect topstitched zipper, but I *gasp* eyeballed it.
My only issue with the finished zipper was that unevenness (can you see it?) at the neck edge.  Sometimes, despite our best efforts, crazy stuff like this happens.  The rest of the back fits together perfectly, so why did the neck edge end up uneven?  Probably the slick-slippery fabric.  (Certainly not my own fault, for sure.)
So at this point, we probably should rip out the whole thing and figure out why it's uneven, and sew it up again.
You don't want to?  Can't say I blame you.
Here you can see what I did instead of the ripping I would have done if I were a good girl:

And this photo shows the next step also.  Yes, that is a hair covered elastic rubber band thing, and not some special button loop.  I tied it off the size I wanted it, and whipstitched it in place.
Adding a covered button gives us this:

Now we'll pin the side seams up:

Matching, of course, the waistline clip, the armhole seam, the hem and the sleeve hem.  We'll sew those, finish those, press, turn it right side out....

And there's our bodice!
Back view:

Not too shabby!
See how that zipper still shows juuust a little?  I think it had to do with not pushing that fold close enough to the zipper coil.  Still, it's not enough to bother me.
At this point, I did create the skirt, but, due to overestimation of my own skill, had to spend most of the afternoon getting comfortable with my seam ripper.  I figure that a seam ripper isn't designed to make you hate life, it's just around when you are, so you project your feelings onto it at the time.  So, since I figure there are about two ways you can feel about ripping seams, and your seam ripper doesn't care either way, we all might just as well make peace with this harmless, helpful tool.
Breathing in.  Breathing out.  I love my seam ripper.
And I will see you back here, for more red dress fun, after I find where I've thrown it.

Remind me, would you, not to start a project that runs headlong into the holidays ever again?
Thank you.
Yesterday, between the children's dentist appointments in the morning and the live nativity scene in the evening, I was able to finish the red dress.  I'll show you.
First, I took a doubled-over-and-ruffled strip and sewed it to the bottom of the bodice.  The bodice lining and the bodice were basted together.  

Then I took the first tier strip, which was 1.5 times the length of the waist seam, and sewed the ends together to make a circle.  Ran two rows of gathering threads along the top edge of it, turned it upside down, and stuck the bodice inside it:

Matched the tier edge with the bodice edge, pulled up the gathering threads, sewed that seam, and, when I'd finished, edgestitched that seam in place.  That helped the little ruffle point down, like it's supposed to.

Did the whole thing again:

And again:

As you see, there wasn't enough little ruffle to finish the hem of the bottom tier, a thing I would have done if I'd had enough.  As it is, though, a 1/4" double-fold topstitched hem works nicely.
Now, since we did all the finishing work on the bodice, we're finished with the entire dress.  For me, for some reason, it's easier to do all the finishing stuff, buttonholes, zippers, any handsewing, before I put the skirt and bodice together.  Once it looks like a dress, and I can see in reality what my idea is going to look like, my creative drive lies down to take a nap, and it's me, alone, gritting my teeth and slogging through the nitpicky details.  So I trick myself by doing those unrewarding details first, and the most rewarding detail last.  That way I keep that finicky creative drive with me until the end.  It's completely psychological, I understand, but really, what isn't?
Now what's left is that gold net overdress.  It should go together very quickly.  If I can fit it in between the stocking stuffer shopping and the caroling...

Hello, again, everyone!  I hope you all had a lovely Christmas.  Today we're going to finish up our red dress with gold net overdress.  What?  It's after Christmas and we're still working on a Christmas dress?  Yes.  There's one more Sunday in December and red and gold aren't off limits yet.  Note to self, though.  Start Christmas dresses in early November.
Let's finish up, shall we?
First, we'll sew the skirt side seams:

Then the bodice shoulder seams:

To finish the edges of this net fabric, (which was awfully difficult to photograph) I've just zigzagged with a wide, short stitch that rolled the edge inward and finished it with a very fine gold hem.

I decided, after all, just to do one puff on the sleeve.  Knowing the rule that any time anything needs to be divided visually, a ratio of 2/3 to 1/3 looks the nicest to our eyes, I put the gathering 5" up on a 15" sleeve:

I just put elastic thread in the bobbin and sewed with the longest stitch on my machine, then sewed again 1/4" away from the first stitching, flattening the fabric as I went.  You can see the knots I've tied at the ends of the stitching there.  That way they won't pull out.
Now we'll run two rows of gathering threads along the sleeve cap and set that into the armhole, pulling the bobbin threads until the sleeve fits the hole, of course:

And now the side seams, from hem to armhole seam to sleeve edge:

And, turning that whole thing right side out:

Very nice.
Now I'll take the skirt, which we sewed together earlier, and, matching the side seams, sew the waist seam:

But look!  There in the front!  The skirt and the bodice don't match up right there.  Ah.  I remember why.  When I cut the pattern, instead of drawing the neckline to exactly the center front, I drew it to a point that was one dart-width away from the center front, to allow room for the ribbon bow.  I simply forgot to take that out of the skirt as well.
No problem, though.  Since we made the pattern, we know immediately where the mistake is, and since we know our mistake, we know we won't ruin anything by just taking our scissors and fixing that mistake right there in the fabric.  I just laid both sides on top of each other, and reshaped that scallop.
Now I've run my short, wide zigzag around the entire edge:

And here's the back:

Now we're going to apply the ribbon.  I just place the top edge right at the waistline seam, and edgestitch it down, then, returning to the same side whence I began my stitching, edgestitched the other side.

And, unexpectedly, I'm not as in love with it as I thought I'd be.  I don't much like the way the ribbon makes the net stand out, especially in the back.  Of course, I have yet to see it modeled by a real child, but a dress form is pretty close, and that seems like a long shot.  Hm.
Because the gold net overdress was such a wide-open creative shot, though, I did make sure to make the red dress completely autonomous, so that it could be worn alone if the gold didn't work out.  These things can go either way.  Often, when I take a chance like this, I come up with something fabulously different.  Sometimes, it gets hung in a closet until I can bear to give it away.
We can still play with it, though.  What do you think?  What would you do now?  Cut it off at the waist and add ties made of the net to make a shrug-type garment?  Scrap it altogether?  Suggestions?
Regardless of what we decide to do with the overdress, I'll post photos of the finished product, modeled by a real human being, on Monday.
Until then,

And at (very long) last, here are the final pictures of our red silk dress.
Here it is with the overdress, which, again unexpectedly, I liked a lot more once it was on my daughter:

And, except for that ribbon that would ripple, no matter what I did, (some fancy footwork with a glue stick might have helped me out here, come to think of it), I like the back too:

Here it is without the net.  Sorry for having cut her head off, but you would not have liked her expression...

And here's the back, complete with wrinkles from sitting on it in church:

What I love is those cap sleeves, the shirred center panel, the neckline shape, the little ruffles in the skirt, and the sleek look of the zipper and button on the back.  Were I to do this same dress again, I'd keep the shirring to the area below the neckline, because I'm not sure the shirring up to the shoulder has the visual impact to make it worth how fiddly that was.  I also think I'd gather the skirt of the net overdress at the waist to give it more fullness.
Now I'll be taking a hiatus from projects for a little while, so that I can a) finish redoing the basic patterns and b) move my family back to California.  I'll pop in here to let you know when I've got the patterns done, but the projects will have to wait until we're settled on the other side of the country.  If, however, anybody would like to do a guest project in my absence, contact me and I'll get you set up.
I think when I unpack my sewing machine and get the dress form put back together, that we need to start work on the Christmas present I couldn't find but wanted so badly for my little people: The Ultimate Dress-Up Box.  Yes.  I think that will be very nice.
Thank you all so much for playing along with me.  I love the part of my day when I hear from each of you, and watching our projects unfold together.  You are brilliant, creative people, and I adore you all.
And we'll play together some more when the sewing machine comes out again, this time, near the great, cold, Pacific.
Until then,

IM小裁缝

路过看下

郭彩云

字母么看懂，图也没看到，哎

梦藜

看见英语就纠结....

likin520

Very good! Your are a nice man, sir!

WU200498

WHY CAN'T SEE THE PHOTO .