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八度火

Lapped Zipper Tutorial


I decided after I posted yesterday that I would post some pictures of my lapped zipper application today.  It's always easier for me to see something first and then do it.
[size=110%]Preparation: First machine baste the center back together.  Mark about 15" below the neckline of the dress.  BASTE to this mark, then change to a regular stitch length, go back and forth a couple of stitches, and stitch with a regular stitch length to the bottom of the dress back.  Press that seam open.

Step 1: Work on the INSIDE of the dress.  Fold the dress and extend the RIGHT seam allowance.

Place the CLOSED zipper face down on the seam allowance with the stop at the top about 7/8" below the raw neck edge.    Then carefully unzip it, keeping the right side of the zipper face down on that right seam allowance.  Using your zipper foot, BASTE that side of the zipper to the seam allowance.

I remembered after the fact that it would have worked better to pull the small piece of zipper tape above the metal stop to the right (closer to the edge of the seam allowance) and stitch it down that way.

Step 2:  Change to a regular stitch length.  Zip the zipper up, and turn it face up.  The seam allowance will fold beside the zipper teeth.  Bring the fold close to the teeth (but not touching.)  I use my edge stitch foot to sew the next line of stitching, which is right along that folded seam allowance.  In the next picture I've used pink arrows to try to show where the stitching is.  (This is one of those times when it would have been helpful if I wasn't using matching thread!)

Step 3:  Unfold dress back and turn right side up.  Spread it flat over the unstitched part of the zipper.  On the outside of the dress, make a mark (with pen or washable ink) to mark the bottom of your zipper.  (If your zipper is longer than you need, stitch back and forth over the teeth an inch below where you want it to end and then trim below your stitching.)

This is where I put scotch tape on my zipper to give me a perfectly straight edge to topstitch.  Start by stitching across the bottom of the zipper, then topstitch about 3/8-1/2" from the seamline. Stop about 2" from the zipper pull.

Take out your basting stitches, and then unzip the zipper.  Then it's easy to finish the rest of the topstitching.  And no one is going to say that this zipper looks homemade!

(If you're wondering, yes, the ribbon did indeed change color.  I decided that I didn't like the way the orange looked in some lights, and so I picked it off and put on pink.)

八度火

这个是我找资料看到的，不是我自己写的，哈。。。注明下-- 八度火



I just have to ask, is there anything like fabric?
Throughout this lesson, I'll show you how to make the pleats, and how they drape. We'll discuss:
Cartridge pleats
Box pleats
Inverted pleats
Rolled pleats
Now, it seems to me that pleats can either stand up or lie flat.  In the standing up category we have accordion and cartridge pleats.  Accordion pleats are made with some type of fancy machinery that I don't own, that crimps the fabric into permanent folds all the way down the length of the fabric.
Cartridge pleats are created, essentially, by a long running stitch down the edge of the fabric that's then pulled up to create tight little standing-up pleats.  These are the type of pleats used in smocking, and here are some:

You can see the gathering threads there on the left.  I did not create these cartridge pleats with a needle, thread, and long running stitch, rather, I used a smocking pleater.  It does the same thing, but it does it with many threads at once, and it does it with gears.  Anything that can be done with gears gets my vote.  And takes a fraction of the time.
Here they are from the edge.

These pleats don't lie flat, rather, when you're finished pleating, you bind the edge.  If you were using cartridge pleats at the top of a skirt, you'd bind them with the waistband.  These are intended to be at the neckline, so they'd be bound with bias binding to become...the neckline.
And here's how the cartridge pleats drape.

They take up more or less fabric depending on the bulk of the fabric itself.  It would take a lot more batiste to make the same width of finished pleating than, say, velveteen.  I do not know, nor can I seem to find out, why they're called "cartridge" pleats.  It seems like there ought to be a good reason.  If anybody can enlighten us, please feel free to do so.
In the lying-flat category, we have knife or side pleats.  These are pleats that are all laid to the side.  Like this:

These pleats need 3 times the fabric of the finished pleated area.  So, for one inch of pleated fabric, we'll need 3 inches of fabric to start with.  Because each half of the actual pleat takes up 1", and the fabric over the pleat is 1".  If we were doing half-inch pleats, we'd need 1/2" for each half of the pleat and 1/2" on the face of our pleated panel.
Since we're doing 1" pleats, we'll start by folding the fabric and placing a pin 1" from the fold:

See how that takes up 2"  Now I'll baste down the fabric, 1" from the fold.  Then I'll press the pleat to one side, like this:

Then, to do another pleat, I'll measure 2" from the center of my first pleat.

2", because it'll take 1" to clear the first pleat, and 1" to go down inside the next one.  The pin is where I should fold it.  Then I'll baste, and press it to the side like the first one.
And so on, until I end up with this:

Here you can see how 1" knife pleats drape.

The top half of this shows pressed pleats, and the bottom shows what happens when you leave them unpressed.
The next two types of pleats are really the same thing.  Box pleats and Inverted pleats are like identical twins, only one likes to play the piano, the other the violin, one keeps a tidy room the other's an incorrigible slob, and so on.
I won't tell you which one's the slob.  In fairness to all pleats.
Here are box pleats:

And, once I flip them over, they become inverted pleats!

The process for making these is the same, but you make the difference when you make these on the right or wrong side of your fabric.
Again, we'll make 1" pleats.
Fold and mark it the same as for knife pleats:

Baste it, and press the pleats, not to one side, but evenly on both sides of your basting line.
To add another pleat, measure 2" from the center of the first pleat and put a pin.  2", because it'll take 1/2" to clear the first pleat, then 1" down into the next pleat, and you'll press that on both sides of the new basting line, taking up the remaining 1/2".

When you press the second pleat, it should just touch the edge of the first.
Until you get a row of pretty little boxes, like this:

Ah! C'est magnifique!
Here they are, pressed and unpressed:

And our inverted pleats:

I might point out here, that if you did an entire panel of inverted pleats, it would only be on the edges that you'd be able to tell them apart from box pleats.  See how the space between the inverted pleats made little boxes?
Long view:

Just for kicks, let's do one really wide inverted pleat.  It seems we often see inverted pleats alone.  On the back of a skirt or a coat, for instance.

Oh, yes, I like that very much.

Another thing you can do with box or inverted pleats is stack them.  Here I've made stacked inverted pleats:

Once I had the basic inverted pleat, I just folded another pleat in on top of it:

and pressed that.  Then I basted across the top to keep it in place.
To make another next to it, I measured out 3".  Because this pleat takes up 2" more fabric than a basic 1" box pleat, and I'm measuring half of it here.



The last type of pleats we'll discuss today is rolled pleats.

They are, well, rolled. They take up five times the fabric of the finished pleat.  So, for a one inch rolled pleat, we'll need 5" of fabric.
Now, these are difficult to explain, but easy to do, so stick with me here for a minute, and it'll become clear what we're doing, k?
I mark off 5" on the wrong side of my fabric.  The two pins at 1 and 5 are my ends.

The pin at 1 shows where the finished pleat will lie.  The pin at 3 shows the first pleat fold.  You with me?
I fold it on the first pleat fold (3), and the pins at 1 and 5 come together.

Then I fold the 3 pin to the 1 and 5 pins. You see where we're going with this?

Then I fold the roll I'm forming to the 0 pin.

Then I open the pleat up, and pin it in place.  To one side like a knife pleat.  
What I end up with is a roll of 4" of fabric underneath 1" of fabric.  See?

Baste across the top of this bad boy to keep it down.
Now, to add another, I'm measuring 5" out from the edge of the previous pleat.  That'll give me enough fabric to do the whole mad thing over again.

After rolling/basting, rolling/basting, rolling/basting, I've got a little row of them.  As you can see, in anything but the thinnest fabric, this is going to make a very thick seam.

Now, why would you go to all that trouble?  Because rolled pleats take up a ton of fabric, they drape beautifully:

I'm not sure they're the type of pleats you'd press, so much.  
Now that we've discussed how to make all these fun pleats, I'm sure you're dying to get busy fiddling with some yourselves.  I won't keep you any longer.  Go pleat!
~Erin~

Prince W.

非常好的资料  八度辛苦了 资料还有吗 继续更新啊

Prince W.

八度的资料真不错  除了折裥肯定还有别的   赶紧统统发来~~

我是一个演员

看下，谢谢分享，图看懂咯，字母没看懂

八度火

国外网站挖来的，，，要再看下，哈，字母容易理解的。。
一会再发个其他效果的制作介绍

八度火

Puffed sleeves are, without question, my very favorite kind of sleeve. They're so adorable, right for so very many outfits, and not all that hard to sew. I'll show you.
This is a short puffed sleeve bound at the bottom with bias French binding.
Loosen your sewing machine tension to nearly 0. Stitch two rows along the top of the sleeve. One goes just inside the seamline, the other halfway between the first one and the raw edge. Begin and end these rows just above the curve shown by the arrow. These are your gathering threads.

Sew two more gathering threads along the bottom of the sleeve, again, just inside the seamline and halfway between this and the raw edge.  Begin and end about 1" from each end.

A note here on the bottom-of-the-sleeve seam allowance.  We're using French binding on this sleeve, and the seam allowance width is determined by the final desired width of the binding. Want a 3/8" binding? Use a 3/8" seam allowance.  1/4" binding?  1/4" seam allowance.  And so on.
Now, everything I've read about French binding says to cut a bias strip that's six times as wide as your final finished binding. So if you want a 1/4" binding, you need a strip that's 1 1/2" wide. This is supposed to work if your seam allowances are the same width as the finished binding.  Fair enough. I've always found that adding an extra 1/8" to 1/4" makes things work easier for me. I think that in folding the fabric around and back and forth, you lose some of your width to the logistics of folding.
So, I cut a binding that's a scant seven times my finished width. I am using a 1/4" seam allowance.  I wanted a 1/4" binding, so I cut it on the shy side of 1 3/4".  Cut it 1 1/2" longer than the measurement around the child's arm.  Fold it wrong sides together and press it like this.

Now, pin the raw edges of the folded binding to the raw lower edge of the sleeve. The binding should be on the wrong side of the sleeve. Match the short ends of the binding to the underarm seam, and match the center of the sleeve to the center of the binding. Put a pin at each end of the gathering threads. Pull the bobbin threads to gather the lower edge of the sleeve until it fits the binding. Wrap the threads, figure-8-style, around the pin.

Adjust the gathers until they look nice. Here you can either distribute the gathers evenly across the whole sleeve edge, or pack most of them in the center. The center-packing thing just gives it a puffier look you may like.
(Return your sewing machine tension to normal and) sew along the upper gathering thread.
Press the seam flat, the same way you sewed it, and then fold the binding and seam allowance away from the sleeve and press them. Fold the folded edge around to the front, making sure it covers your previous stitching and pin it. Here's where you'll appreciate that little extra width.

Here's a closer look.

Now stitch very close to the folded edge, carefully making sure you're still covering that stitching.

Press the binding again.
Place the underarm seam right sides together and stitch it. Finish the seam however you finish seams.

Press the seam allowance to one side, making sure that it doesn't show below the lower edge of the binding. A few stitches right there where you see the pink zig-zaggy lines helps keep the seam allowance in place.

Do it all over again for the other sleeve, and you have a pair of cute puffed sleeves, just waiting for the right pair of armholes to come along.

Prince W.

国外网站挖来的，，，要再看下，哈，字母容易理解的。。
一会再发个其他效果的制作介绍
八度火 发表于 2010-10-21 17:27

   其他效果的也发这个帖子里吧  这样容易得到人气和精华~

Prince W.

八度，你的文章名字我怎么改不了了啊 ？
全英文课程教你做设计--------"八度火"英语区特供资料 速来围观!

susu8719

挺棒的~~

存下来