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_____饭o

真的太厉害了```      我还是要好好学习一下英语了```！   


                 坡非特！

八度火

All cut out and pleated.  We'll be smocking before doing any sewing on this one, so I'm off to commune with the needles and floss.
See you next week!

I tell you what.  If I was looking for a dress that it was okay to eat carrots with, this is it.
Here it is smocked:


I only used one color on this one, to keep things as calm as possible with this vivid print.  And behold!  I did discover that the smocking itself, especially the row of cable stitching at the top, is easier to do without the piping there holding everything rigid.  If the pleats can move back and forth on those gathering threads, there's more freedom to get the smocking stitches just right.  Mom did know best after all.
Now we'll move on to the construction of this, the Carrots-Help-With-Heartburn Dress, with a clear conscience, knowing that we've figured out the best way to do it.  I just hope that when I'm done, it doesn't forever keep that unpleasant association.  I'm going to forget all this when it's over, right?
Right.

Happy Wednesday, everyone!  Today I've finished up the orange dress, the construction of which is the same as the white dress we made last week, except for one thing.  The hem, instead of being hand-sewn, is machine sewn with a 1/2" tuck at the top:

Other than that, they're identical.  Besides the fact that one is demurely white and the other is boldly orange.  
Here's the finished product:



Excellent!  As a side note, this is very fun fabric to sew with, since the pattern is all laid out in precise 90-degree and 45-degree rows.  Makes cutting bias strips for bindings and piping a cinch.
Thanks for coming along on our smocked baby dress adventure!  I hope you learned as much as I did.
Next time, a shirring tutorial and a new pattern...
See you then!

hyf0501

都是英文看不懂，不过谢谢分享

八度火

casual knit set

Happy Monday, everyone!  Today, because it's mid-May, and that means summer here in Southern California (and, I mean, come on, when isn't it summer here?) we're going to work up some easy-care, easy-wear leggings and tops sets for the run-and-play crowd.  Ready?
I thought you might be.
I have a couple of funky little design drawings here for you:
View A:
This one is going to be modeled on a top my daughter already has, which technically isn't supposed to be a top at all.  If you were to look at the tag in the back, you'd see that it's a size three, and she just turned seven.  She wore it when she was three, and at that point it was a dress that came below her knees.  As she grew taller, she eventually added leggings or jeans underneath, and now it's one of her most beloved tops.
And what do we do with beloved articles of clothing?  We make copies.
So this one will have a cross-over neckline and high-ish yoke with contrast detail, short sleeves and a not-really-very-ruffly ruffle at the bottom.  We'll decorate the hem of the leggings with a couple of rows of ruching.



View B:
I think we'll make the second top A-line with a center pleat and flutter sleeves, no ruffle at the bottom.
The leggings would be cute with a drawstring detail at the hem.









Now we have some decisions to make.  Let's take another look at our fabrics:

We need to determine which fabrics go where.  Four fabrics, two sets, what do you think?

Before we plunge into working on our knit sets, we ought to discuss, for just a minute, the materials we're working with.
Now, I am no expert on knits.  I know enough to sew decently with them on my sewing machine.  I know enough to know that if I had a brand-new, bells-and-whistles serger, (instead of the works-sometimes-but-only-if-it-feels-like-it serger I do have) sewing with knits could be...easier?  Quicker?  More fun?  Maybe, but maybe not.  I'm trying very hard to believe that a sewing machine does just fine on its own, so we'll proceed on that assumption.
There are two categories of knits that we're going to be using in this project.  First, there's a single knit.

See that curled edge?  That's how you're going to know, when you're standing in the fabric store, that you've got a single knit, such as jersey, on your hands.  Grab the cut edge and pull it, widthwise, a little.  If it curls, it's a single knit.  Single knits have little ribs running lengthwise down the right side, and the wrong side looks like tiny rows of purl knitting.
Double knits, on the other hand:

will not curl when you stretch the edge as you're standing in the fabric store.  (Don't worry, the ladies at the cutting counter know what you're doing and will not raise their eyebrows at you.  The guy who wants to take the sheet of upholstery foam home, sleep on it, and bring it back to the fabric store tomorrow, however, is going to get executed.)
This here is interlock, and it has fine ribs running down both faces of the fabric.  You can use either side as the "right" side and nobody'll be the wiser.  You'll probably want to use the same side as the right side on all your pattern pieces, because, theoretically, there could be some color variation between the "right" and "wrong" side.
Right and wrong are suddenly relative.  Interlock is a very existential fabric.
Given the choice between a jersey and an interlock, I'd chose the interlock most of the time.  It's a more substantial fabric, which means it's going to stand up to the abuse children dish out for longer (unless your children's brand of abuse involves scissors or bleach, in which case all bets are off), and it's easier to sew with, on account of its not curling when you cut it.
In some applications, though, the jersey is a better choice.  Being lighter, it's ideal for a garment that's intended to be a layer.  So if you're making a pair of leggings, for instance, that's going to be worn under skirts in the summer, jersey will be a cooler choice than interlock.
For these two outfits we're making, I chose interlock where I could, and jersey when I couldn't find interlock to match.  Both will work just fine.
Leggings:
We'll begin, I think, with the leggings for both sets.  They're really a cinch to sew, even without a (sigh) new serger, and once they're done we'll be so motivated to make the more detailed tops to go with them.  
We've done the leggings pattern design before, and if you click on the picture below, you can get the .pdf that describes how to do that

Today, as promised, we're going to work on the leggings portion of our summer knit sets.
First, we start with the modified pants pattern created as per the instructions from the handy little lesson yesterday  And here's the pattern:
Now, one thing that it's important to note at this point is that the inseam on the left there and the inseam on the right need to match in length.
Mine did not, initally, and I just took the extra length out at the hem on the side that was longer.  It wasn't enough to make a real difference in the finished product, I don't think.








Here we are all cut out:

Hem:
First we're going to hem each leg.

Here I've used a "lightning stitch", which is an itty-bitty zigzag stitch for stretch fabrics.  I could also have used a long straight stitch, if I'd stretched the fabric slightly as I sewed, to build stretch into the hem.
See, stretch fabrics are going to stretch when you wear them, and you wouldn't want any seams in your stretch garment that aren't going to stretch along with it.  (How many times can you say "stretch" in one sentence?) Therefore, if we're using a stitch that isn't inherently stretchy, such as straight stitch, we'll need to stretch the fabric as we sew, so that when we're finished the seam or hem will give instead of the threads breaking.  If we're using a zigzag stitch or one of the "stretch" stitches that many sewing machines have nowadays, the stretch is built in and we don't have to worry about it.  
To proceed.
Ruching:
Trims in knits are pretty fun, because the edges of the fabric won't fray.  Honestly.  So, in order to make the trims for this pair of leggings, we'll cut a long strip of our yellow knit and run the center under a shirring foot to make a pile of this:

Of which we'll sew rows along the hem of our leggings thus:

Now that looks fancy, doesn't it?
To attach these trim strips, I've used a long straight stitch, and sewn down the stitching line we put in in the ruffling step.
As an aside here, you may be wondering why I'm not using the coordinating print I've got that matches this yellow for the trim strips.  I find that in the interest of wardrobe planning (and general child-raising sanity) it's best to keep one half of my daughter's wardrobe in a solid color.  If all her pants are jeans, khakis, or even yellows and blues like the leggings we're making today, she stands a better chance of being able to create her own outfit for any given day.  Once she's chosen her clothes and dressed, you do not want to tell her she has to go back and change because the frills on her leggings don't match the trim on her top.  Her wardrobe choices are law.
Moving on!
Crotch Seams
Front to front, back to back:

Here I've used an overlock stitch.  Just an overlock stitch that's on my sewing machine, nothing too exciting.
Inseam:
Now we'll sew the inseam from hem to crotch seam to hem again:

I did notice here that when I'd sewn the inseam completely I got a funky little point right where the crotch seam and inseam met.

I found that by adjusting the placement of my seam a little bit I was able to round that off, but would have been better, I think, to have known that in the design stage.
Here's where we can adjust that little flaw:

Elastic Waist:
Now all that's left is to finish the waistline.
A little folded tag of twill tape sewn right at the center back will be immensely helpful:

Now we'll turn the waist edge down, pin and press that, and sew (lightning stitch) along the lower edge:

Leaving, of course, several inches open somewhere along there to allow us to put the elastic in.
I always cut a length of elastic the exact measurement of the child's waist.  Then, when the ends are overlapped, I lose an inch, but I've found that if I do it bigger than that I get too much elastic in the waistband somehow.  Elastic is a funny animal.
Here it is after weaseling the elastic down the tunnel we made with a safety pin:

And overlapping those ends.  I've zigzagged them together, and you can see the tag now, hanging in the right place.
Now we'll sew up the hole we left to put the elastic in, and, using a long straight stitch, sew down the center of the elastic, all the way around the waist, to hold it in place.

And that's it!
Now we can look at the finished product:

They look a little funny and pokey on the dress form, but they are designed to be close-fitting, so I suppose we'll see how they look later when we put them on an actual child.
I think perhaps we ought to stop there, and discuss the blue leggings next time.  Yes, I think that's the prudent course of action.
As always, if you have questions, comments, or just want to say hello, please don't hesitate!  See you next time...

八度火

To take directly up where we left off yesterday, we'll finish up with the blue pair of leggings.
Amazingly enough, the process for making the blue leggings is the same as for the yellows!  There is one difference, though.  We're going to put a little drawstring detail at the hem on the blue leggings, and no ruffles.  
Here's how we'll do that:

If we had a side seam here, we could just cut the seam allowance a little wider here, then sew down the outer edges to make a casing for our drawstring.  We don't, and I'd rather not create one where we don't need one just on account of the drawstring.
So, instead, we'll add this little panel.  Pretty straightforward, really, just two channels with an open top, the bottom edge turned under to make it tidy and stronger.
Now we'll make a little drawstring, just a little bitty fabric tube, sewn lengthwise and turned right side out.
Then, without even taking off the safety pin that we used to turn the tube right side out, we'll thread the drawstring up, then down again:

A couple of stitches at the top there will keep the drawstring in place:

...And the drawstring is done. Ooooh, I can hardly stand it!  Let's turn it over and tie it in a bow!

Gracious.  Isn't that as cute as it can be?   
Okay, okay, now it's just (ho-hum) the same sewing we did yesterday, which I'll do off-screen here to hurry things up.
And here we are!  (Magical, isn't it, when somebody else does the ho-hum sewing?)

Drawstring detail:

Sometimes, sometimes it turns out exactly like you'd envisioned.  And here's the whole thing in a nutshell.  Here's the carrot that keeps us designing and sewing things.  This is what we remember when we sew something, put it on someone, scrunch up our noses and say, "That isn't quite it..."  It's that little voice in the back of our minds that says, "Maybe, but sometimes it does turn out.  Sometimes it turns out better."  And somehow we forget, as soon as our backs are turned, that we have ever failed.  That failure is even possible, is even part of this glorious hobby we call sewing.
It's a trap, I tell you!  An insidious trap!  And there's no way out! At least, I don't think there is.  I'm not really looking for one. :)
More madness, pattern design, and half-cocked conspiracy theories next time...

Today we'll get right down to business, drafting up the pattern for our "View A" top.
We'll start, as usual, with a printout of the basic bodice pattern in the size we need:

I'm using one size smaller than I usually use for my daughter, because the knits are going to stretch, and knits don't need as much wearing ease as wovens.  In going down one size I've effectively removed one inch from the chest measurement.
Waist Seam:
First we're going to raise the waist seam.

I've measured down 1 1/2" on the side seam to make the new waist seam.  And while we're here, we might as well add the seam allowance.
Neckline:
Four steps in one photo, watch closely:

1) Here we'll determine how far we want the neckline out at the shoulder.  I've gone out 1/2" from the block pattern.
2) Here we'll decide where we want the fronts to cross, effectively making the bottom of the neckline.  We'll draw in the neckline, matching the marks, and going all the way to the center back.
3) Because we're going to put in a 1" wide contrast binding, we'll need to remove 1" from the neckline now.
4) Seam allowance. (That old devil.)
Trimming away all the excess gives us the neckline:

Good!
Sleeves:
I think we'll do a sleeve that has gathers in the top, but not at the hem. Deal?
First we'll mark the length that we want.  I think 3" should do.  We also want 1" at the underarm seam.  Joining those marks with a curvy line gives us the sleeve hem:

Now about those gathers.
We don't want a puffed sleeve, so much, just some cute gathers as an accent right there at the top of the sleeve, so I think we'll just add 1/2", thus:

Taping it all down, smoothing the curves, and giving it the seam allowance treatment brings us here:

Seam Allowance:
And giving everything else the same treatment brings us here:

Excellent!  Now one piece only remains.
Skirt:
What we're going to need in order to put an A-line skirt on this baby is a pattern piece that looks like the one on the left.  (It doesn't have to be mossy green.  I guess.)  More on how to make A-line thingies, is, of course, available in the "A-line styles" lesson on the lessons page.
Still. Pretty simple pattern piece here.  I think we'll add 2" width at the bottom, and do not let us forget that we intend to add a ruffle at the hem as well, and make the skirt piece too long.


And...voila!  We're done with the pattern for the "View A" top, ready to move on to the "View B" top, and then, it's sewing, sewing, sewing.
You with me?  Excellent.
Have a beautiful weekend, and I'll see you next week!

Waistline (or lack thereof):
Diving right in, we'll start by making our top A-line.

More on A-lining in the A-line styles lesson, of course.  I've added 4" at the hem here.  Also, if you do not live in a house full of under-ten-year-old terrorists who delight in using, destroying, and scattering your things, get yourself some newsprint or other large paper to use when making patterns and don't tape printer paper together in this pathetic fashion.  Thank you.
So we've made the front A-line.
Center Pleat:
Usually we'd add style lines later in the design process, but since the center pleat is affected by the neckline, we'll go ahead and address it now.
Really all it requires is an extra chunk of fabric right at the center front:

I've added 1 1/2" all the way down the center front, which will give us 3" total for our pleat when we cut this pattern piece on the fold.  And cut away all the extra paper.
The reason we did the pleat first was because the neckline edge of the pleat needs to match the neckline, see?  So in order to cut that correctly, we'll need to fold the pleat into the paper like it'll be folded in the actual garment:

Just so.  I promise I didn't put the website address right across that photo on purpose.
Now we can do the...
Neckline:
We'll lower the neckline 1" in the front, 3/4" at the shoulder and center back:

And put in the seam allowance while we're there.  Really, truly, seam allowances should be put in after all the changes we're going to make have been made.  That way we don't end up with a mistake in the seam allowances.  So I suppose we carry out danger-defying corner cutting like this at our own peril.  (Didn't I tell you you and I were going to get into trouble together?)
Neckline accomplished, we'll move on to the sleeve.
Sleeve:
At first blush this is going to look at lot like the sleeve we did for our other top:

Because we've done the same first step here.  We've marked the length (2") on the center of the sleeve, and we've marked the underarm seam length (1/2").  Aside from being a little shorter, this is the same as the other sleeve so far.
That's about to change.
Because instead of adding gathers at the top like we did with the last sleeve, we're going to cut from hem to cap and add width at the hem, so:

We've added 1/2" at each cut.
Seam allowancing the whole thing gives us this (admittedly rather odd looking) sleeve pattern:

And that finishes the pattern for the "View B" top.  At this point you may be wondering why I didn't tape printer paper together and make the bodice back into an A-line like I did the front.  And you're right.  I ought to have, really, traced the shape of that new side seam onto an enlarged bodice back piece.  But since it is going to be the same, (and since I'm still resentful of the fact that I can't keep large paper on hand), I'm going to fake it, and use the front pattern piece and the back at the same time when I cut the back pattern out in fabric.  Forgive me.  It's as close to life on the edge as I can get.
Whew!  Pattern-making is done for this project!  Now it's down to the sewing.  Which, of course, we'll do next time.
See you then!

Okay! Enough with the paper and the pencils!  Are you ready for needles and thread?
Me too.
Today we're going to work on the "View A" top that we designed...oh...several days ago now.  Here's our "artist's" rendering:

So I think it'd be best to start with the skirt portion of our little top here.
Skirt:
The skirt is two of these:

cut on the fold.  So, we'll sew two side seams:

And there we are.  Now a ruffle for the bottom.  I'd like to end up with a ruffle that's approximately 4" long, so I'm going to go ahead and cut a strip of fabric that's 5" wide.  That'll give me enough for a seam allowance at the top and a hem at the bottom.
So we'll turn up a little double fold hem and run the top under the shirring foot:

There are a couple of ways (at least) that we could attach this ruffle.  Probably the easiest (which of course is not what we're going to do) is to sew one skirt side seam, sew the ruffle to the skirt bottom edge, and sew the open side seam and ruffle seam all at once.
Since we've already sewn both side seams, though, and since doing it the other way isn't daunting enough to make me take out the seam ripper, we'll do it that way.
First we'll sew the ruffle to the lower skirt edge, leaving enough ruffle at the beginning and end of our stitching to make a seam later.  We'll also butt the beginning of the ruffle to the end, like so:

It's a little tough to see in the photo there, so I've (graciously) circled what we're talking about with a cheerful melon-colored circle.  You're most welcome.
Now we'll sew the ruffle seam like so:

And trim off any extra ruffle that was left over.  Or trim and then sew, I guess.  Either one.
But now, with a little pressing, we have our skirt finished:

Cute! It's not really that tight around the chest there, I've got it pinned in the back to make it fit the dress form.
Now that we have a skirt hanging there, it needs a bodice, I do believe.
Bodice:
First we'll sew the shoulder seams, from the neckline to the armhole:

inserting, as we go, a little piece of twill tape:

because we do not want the shoulder seams to stretch.
Now we'll lay those seam allowances toward the back, press, and topstitch:

Now we need to do our contrast neckline binding.
First we're going to cut a strip of the yellow fabric to use as that binding.  We know that we want a 1" binding when it's finished.  This means we need a strip that's 2" wide plus one seam allowance.  You'll see why in a minute.
Often, I find, instructions for knit bindings say something like, "Cut a strip of binding material that is 3/4 the length of the edge to be bound."  I narrow my eyes at this.  Have the instruction-writers ever sewn with my particular fabric?  They have not.  Too many times I've found myself struggling to bind an edge with a strip that's precisely 3/4 of that edge, but it won't...quite...make it...because my fabric has some odd percentage of stretch, say, 21% instead of 25.
All of this is to say, that I always cut my strip too long. I can always cut some off, but adding fabric is dicey business.  So I've cut a strip here that's roughly the same length as the edge to be bound.
Because we do want the inside edge of the binding to be smaller than the edge that's sewn to the fruit fabric, we do want to stretch the binding as we sew.  If we just bound the edge with a strip that wasn't stretched, the binding would be all floppy-bunchy in weird places.  So, while we didn't want to cut the binding strip 3/4 the length of the neckline edge, we do want to mark it at 3/4 the length.
So, we'll measure the distance from the front point to the center back, divide that by 3/4, and mark that measurement on the binding. Likewise for the other half.

So here it is, all pin-marked up, (and labeled with lovely melon-colored words).
Now we'll pin it to the neckline edge, matching those center back pins and the front point pins...

You will notice, I think, that the binding strip is smaller than the edge we're going to sew it to.  Good.
Now, stretching the yellow (but not the white) as we sew, we'll carefully sew the binding to the neckline.
And it seems my fears were unfounded, because it fit perfectly:

So we'll just cut off that extra.  (This time it worked.  But just get comfortable and see if it works next time...)
After pressing that seam, we'll fold the long edge of the binding around to the back, so that it just covers the stitching on that side and pin it.

See why we didn't need another seam allowance back there?  If this were a woven we'd need to finish or turn under that edge, but it ain't, so we don't.
Now, on the right side, we're going to topstitch close to the edge:

catching that binding in the back:

And here, after a little pressing (looks like it could use a little more) is the finished binding:

Okay!  I think that's enough for today.  Next time we'll tackle the sleeves and finish this baby up.
See you then!

Are you ready to finish up our fruity creation?  Yes?
Then let's start with the
Sleeves:
First we're going to bind the hem edge of the sleeves:

Except we are not going to stretch the binding this time.  We want the binding to end up the same length as the sleeve.  No funny business.

Also, this binding is considerably thinner.  Otherwise, it's the same deal as the neckline binding.
We'll put in a couple of little gathering threads at the top of the sleeve, because, you remember, we put in some extra width there that now we're going to need to take out.

Now we'll pin the sleeve into the armhole, thus:

And pull up the bobbin threads to make those little gathers in the top of the sleeve.
Then we'll stitch that seam (not much different than the photo above, just imagine thread instead of pins).
Side Seam:
After which we'll do the side seam, from the sleeve hem to the waist:

And now we can take a look at how our sleeve turned out:

Very nice!
Finishing:
That should technically read "waistline seam", but "finishing" makes me feel like we're almost there, so we'll use that heading, deal?  We are finishing, so it's not wishful thinking only.
First we need to overlap the front, for which we'll need the "center front" marking from the pattern.

We'll mark both sides, naturally.  Then we'll overlap the center front markings thus:

And baste the waistline edges together.  A note right here. See where the binding takes off at a 90 degree angle to the neckline?  This becomes a little problematic later, when I try to pull that corner down into the waistline seam.  It'll do it, but it wants very badly to pull back and cause a funny twisty place right there.  It worked out in the end, but I think it would have been better to continue the binding onward past the front edge there, so that it could be cut at the waistline seam angle instead of the difficult angle we have here.
Now we'll cut a strip to make the waistline detail, 2" wide plus 2 seam allowances, and the length of the bodice waistline plus 2 seam allowances.
And join the ends:

Press it lengthwise, wrong sides together:

and pin it to the bottom of the bodice, raw edges matching.

We'll baste that in place, then slip the (right side out) bodice upside down into the (wrong side out) skirt.  So that the right sides are all together, see.

Now, when we sew that seam, press that seam, check the whole thing for stray threads and unpressed bits, turn it right side out and give it a good shake...

...we can see the finished product.  Not too shabby, I think.  One down, one to go?
Next time, my friends!

xiaoshayu

那些不能看的图片是什么啊？

xiaoshayu

那些不能看的图片是什么啊？

xiaoshayu

那些不能看的图片是什么啊？

狂风瘦

怎么看不到图片

八度火

那些不能看的图片是什么啊？
xiaoshayu 发表于 2010-11-8 10:25

    可以的。。网络问题把