Runway Seasonal Must-Haves essential

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 00:53:00

Back to the future

Sun and optical eyewear have become pivotal elements of menswear styling, with both thick and more refined square frames emerging as the new “it” shapes. Tortoise shell, bold color and two-tone frames remain staples for F/W 09. Directional design details like half-cut faces and understated, embellished temple bars help elevate them to must-have items.
太阳眼镜与光学眼镜都已经成为男装造型中的关键元素，厚框与更为精致的方形镜框都是新的 “it” 造型。玳瑁、醒目色彩与双色镜框仍然是 09 秋冬的代表款式。半切割的镜面与低调装饰的眼镜腿等潮流设计细节令其上升为必备款式。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:16:24

Lapel docuration

Ornamentation appeared as a recurring theme for Fall 09 runways, in particular amongst formalwear. Jacket lapels were adorned with the quirkiest of decorations including pins featuring unusual eye-catching trinkets, like Heraldic-inspired medallions. Appliquéd corsages emphasized old-world dandy sophistication with frayed, crinkled fabrics whereas Vivienne Westwood's lime green grasshopper offered a humorously eccentric alternative to an otherwise conventional outfit
装饰成为 09 秋季 T 台上的复苏主题，尤其是在正装领域。夹克翻领上装饰着别针等诡异至极的装饰，突显出奖章等独特而抢眼的小饰品。贴花状胸花用磨损皱纹面料营造出古老的典雅绅士格调，而 Vivienne Westwood 的青柠绿色蚱蜢则在传统服装之外呈现出诙谐而古怪的选择。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:21:14

Evening bondage

For F/W 09 designers took a very tactile approach to accessories, presenting tailored finery with a subtle flair of rough and tough texture. Consummately sartorial pieces like satin scarves and two-tone wingtips looked simultaneously edgy and sophisticated, while dominating suede-fastened cummerbunds layered over evening dress shirts had a distinct “bondage” feel. Even traditional accessory pieces like belts became tight and all encompassing and dress scarves were transformed into sliced and entangled pieces.
09 秋冬，设计师在配件设计中采用了富有触感的手法，呈现出带有淡淡粗犷纹理的剪裁精品。绸缎围巾与双色翼纹鞋等具有精湛裁剪工艺的单品既前卫又成熟，而主导潮流的麂皮系带腹带搭配在晚礼服衬衫之外，营造出独特的 “绷带” 束绑之感。甚至连腰带等传统配件也采用紧身包裹设计，礼服围巾也转化成细条缠绕款式。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:31:28

Workwear

The luxification of workwear was one of the most directional stories on runways for F/W 09 and designers addressed the subject appropriately with fitting accessories. An industrial look came through on baker boy and driving caps, tattered leather belts and distressed canvas bags. Work boots continue to be popular, but expect more distressed brogue alternatives in the future. Colors remained neutral and dusty.
将工装奢华化是09秋冬T台商最鲜明的潮流趋势，设计师也用贴身配件诠释这一主题。面包师帽子与驾驶帽、破烂的皮革腰带与作旧帆布包打造出工装造型。工装靴也继续流行，但未来将出现具有更多作旧元素的粗革款式。设计色彩则保持了模糊中性风格

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:44:02

Chemical green

The newest color to emerge throughout many F/W 09 collections was chemical green. Although considered a must have for men’s apparel, its incorporation in accessories makes it a more subliminal and sophisticated hue. This blue-based tone was mainly used in monochromatic dressing, looking most effective in patent leathers where the high shine surfaces illuminated the natural hues.

化学绿色是许多09秋冬系列中出现的最新色彩。虽然这一色彩被称为男士服装的必备色彩，但进入配件市场后却变身成为低调的成熟色调。这一以蓝色为基础的色彩主要用于单色服装，最适合用于漆皮配件，而漆皮的高光也更能更好衬托出这一天然色调。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:46:27

Statement pieces

Some of the more directional runways showcased audacious jewelry using knotted leather, chain mail, twisted rope, and actual hardware, all fashioned into unorthodox accessories. With an almost medieval influence the harsh design constructions featured a balanced palette of black, brass and silver to convey a masculine edge. The creation of really interesting components is the most valuable aspect to take away

部分更具T台前沿性的款式用打结皮革、锁子甲、扭曲绳子与金属部件打造出创新首饰，都融入非传统配件。粗糙的设计结构呈现出近乎中世纪的风格，在黑色、黄铜色与银色之间呈现出平衡色调，传达出阳刚质感。塑造真正独特的元素是最具价值的设计主题。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:49:22

Novelty gloves

Designers went to great lengths to create an innovative take on one of F/W’s staple accessories, the glove. Re-worked in luxe materials like cashmere and calf, and playing with new proportions and nuances of silhouettes, it became the centerpiece for many of the directional runways. Surface details were adorned with over-elaborate embellishments such as lizard skin and angora hair, while buttons, studs and zipper details added an unexpected “rough” contrast
设计师竭力在手套这一秋冬代表配件之一上塑造创意元素。有的以羊绒与小牛皮等奢华面料再造，有的呈现新比例与色彩把玩，成为许多潮流T台的核心。表面细节上装饰着蜥蜴皮与安哥拉羊毛等超精细装饰，而钮扣、铆钉和拉链细节则营造出独特的“粗糙”对比。

blueheart2009 · 发表于 2009-5-27 01:51:04

The hip bag

Designers created subtle and compact hip bags for the male nomad. As an evolution of its predecessor, the fanny pack, this style was re-worked in soft leathers as a flat square, with oversized pouches attached to belts or wrapped around waists. Ornate suede sporrans with snap closures looked polished, while handcrafted supple leather pouches were reminiscent of medieval style drawstring bags

设计师为男士游牧民塑造出精致简洁的胯包。从腰包演变而来的这一风格以柔软皮革和扁平正方形再造，并配以超大储物袋或包裹腰带。带有按扣开襟的装饰麂皮散发出成熟韵味，而手工打造的柔软皮革袋则令人回忆起中世纪风格抽绳袋。