20世纪初的手绘世界民族服饰图鉴

An.Len

北非突尼斯


Jacket: ghlila. Trousers: sserual. Vest: ssedria or firmla.
Shoes: begha. Cap: shishia.

The Tunisian jacket and trousers are of cloth, but those worn in summer
are also made of white linen or cotton. The vest is usually of same
material as the rest of the suit. N. African men's shoes are yellow, those
of women mostly red, seldom green. The shishia is rounder in Tunis,
and in Morocco more pointed.




Kasabia, gasabia and hood-jacket.

The gasabia is a garment worn by the working-class, small shopkeepers,
camel-drivers, etc. It is made of rough brown, grey, or white
haik material, and decorated with white woollen borders. The hood-jacket
lakes the place of the burnoose with the busy itinerant dealers and such
like folk for whom the former is too wide and inconvenient. The hoodjacket
is worn over the gasabia or the ordinary suit. The coachmen in
Tunis wear blue ones with red lining.
From drawings made in Tunis.

An.Len

博尔努王国



White Haussa trousers.

African trousers, like tobes, are made of narrow strips sewn together
and embroidered in accordance with their colours.




Embroidered Bornu woman's shirt.

Material of this shirt is either dyed indigo-blue, or of white cotton.
The embroidery is very peculiar, and tastefully worked in blue floss-siik.
Embroidery pattern depicts an upper garment (decorated along its lower
hem with tassels) drawn over the wide-sleeved lower garment, and
superabundantly decorated with necklaces. Similar decoration patterns
are found on Indian garments. Cf. Pis. 86 and 93


Guinea-fowl tobe.

African tobes are sewn together out of small 4—5 cm. broad woollen
strips (gabag) which are woven on the narrow native looms. The Bornu
tobes are either white or dyed with indigo. Colour of ornamentations,
embroidery, and open-work, wrhich also cover the large breastpocket, is
usually white. Material employed is raw silk or fine cotton. Embroidery
on those tobes, made of white material and dyed indigo-red strips sewn
together, is nearly always green. The wide sleeves of the tobe are draped
in folds on the shoulders according to requirements. Nachtigall's book
"Sahara und Sudan" (Vol. 1, p. 642 et seq.) provides further details about
tobes.

An.Len

埃及苏丹



Warrior's blouse from Omdurman.

These garments are made of cotton and ornamented with coloured
decorative material. The amulet pockets behind and in front, as well as
the characteristic triangle at the opening for the neck, are cut out of cloth
and trimmed with coloured cord. The cut of the blouse is akin to the
Egyptian shirt on PL 18, the opening for the neck is similar to those of
Afghanistan and Northern India (cf. Pis. 84 and 92).

An.Len

埃及



Kaftan, kuftan (Egyptian) or entari (Turkish) and under-vest, sedria.

The kaftan is one of the most common articles of dress in the Near
East. It is worn by people of rank, and the middle-class. It is always
girdled with a cloth belt (hizan).
Only striped cotton or half-silk fabrics are employed in making men's
kaftans. The lining is always made of ramie. Formerly kaftans made
of satin or brocade were popular. The most favourite colours are crimson
or violet-red with white or yellow stripes, (cf. the under-vests on PI. 38).
The kaftan depicted here is made of coarse half-silk material woven
in Sanaa in S. Arabia. Nearly all kaftans have a 5 cm. broad vertical piece
of white or yellow stitching about a hand's breadth over the seam.
A vest, shirt and trousers are worn under the kaftan. The djubbeh
(PI. 23) or binish (PI. 22) serves as overcoat; in Asia Minor and Syria the
short salta jacket (cf. PI. 39). Travellers prefer to wear a dust or weather
cloak, the aba, (cf. PI. 29) over the kaftan.


Djubbeh or gibbeh. Cloth overcoat. Front and back view.
The djubbeh, like the binish, is worn as an overcoat over the kaftan.
It is nearly always of cloth, but distinguishes itself from the binish by
its complicated cut and narrow sleeves. Favourite colours for the djubbeh
are wine-red, brown, grey, and blue. It is mainly worn in Turkish
countries by persons of rank. The Kurds of the S. Caucasus like to trim
the djubbeh with gold Turkish braidings over the chest.
W. Gentz Coll.

An.Len

古埃及与近东



Persian cloak made of shiny fine hair woollen material.
(Found in an Egyptian grave of the 6th cent. B. C.)
This garment shows oriental origin in the super-long sleeves worn in
accordance with the Asiatic custom. The open parts at the arm-pits are
also found in Persian-Caucasian as well as Indian garments. The breastflap,
which can be tied, reminds one of the forms of the Indian angarkha
(cf. PI. 95). The back of this cloak, which is made of one piece, is cut
in the same manner as the modern Turkish djubbehs or binishes. The
braid on the cloak resembles in its technique the tent-carpets of the
Turkomans. The ornamental motif also points to north-western Persia.
Orig. in the Neues Museum, Berlin. Now published by kind permission
of the directors for the first time.



Persian kirtle from an Egyptian grave (ca. 6th cent. A. D.)

The garment is made of fine linen. The nucleus has already had
side parts added. The sleeves slant towards the wrist in the modern
Persian fashion. In colour, motif, and the manner of making, the woollen
braid resembles that of modern Turkoman tent spreads and carpets. The
shape of the neck-opening is very similar to that of the Afghan shirts
(PI. 84), the women's kirtles in Benares (PL 92), and the warriors' tunics
in Omdurman. The leg coverings are of reddish or brown felt ornamented
below; they were fastened to a hip-cord. High soft leather top-boots, some
of which are still preserved, completed the ancient costume of the Persians

An.Len

也门



Woman's shirt, kanis, from the mountain districts of Yemen.

The shirt is dyed with indigo-blue and made of shiny cotton. The
sleeves, like those of the Bornu woman's shirt (PI. 12) are wide. The
embroidery consists of white cotton threads, and is enlivened by red and
yellow stitches. The embroidery ends on the back in a triangular pattern
between two stripes in the style of the painted shirts worn by Afghan
women (cf. PI. 86). The opening for the neck and breast are ornamented
with gold threads and copper coloured edging.
As these shirts are very badly dyed, the white embroidery threads
soon get dirty and stained light blue. Besides the wide-sleeved garments,
there are others with sleeves narrowing at the wrist. Under their shirts
the women wear long drawers which are tight at the end, and of the
same colour. Sub is the name of a white pleated skirt with very long
sleeves.

An.Len

叙利亚



Front and back view of an aba from Damascus.

This aba is a type of those beautiful, gold-embroidered garments which
the aristocratic Syrians and Arabs wear as gala dress. In this specimen,
not only golden, but coloured threads are also woven into the natural colour
fine woollen material.
A favourite colour combination on the gala-abas is that of black, gold
and crimson; brown-gold, crimson and green; light-blue and gold; lightblue
and silver; red with gold; wine-red, silver and gold; white and silver,
and other colours. Abas made of ribbed silk and moire are also worn.
The most magnificent gala-abas are made in Syria, Mesopotamia, and
Western Persia.




Front and back view of an aba from Damascus.

This aba is a type of those beautiful, gold-embroidered garments which
the aristocratic Syrians and Arabs wear as gala dress. In this specimen,
not only golden, but coloured threads are also woven into the natural colour
fine woollen material.
A favourite colour combination on the gala-abas is that of black, gold
and crimson; brown-gold, crimson and green; light-blue and gold; lightblue
and silver; red with gold; wine-red, silver and gold; white and silver,
and other colours. Abas made of ribbed silk and moire are also worn.
The most magnificent gala-abas are made in Syria, Mesopotamia, and
Western Persia.

An.Len

叙利亚，巴勒斯坦



Striped aba.

The common aba is striped brown and white. The shoulder-seam,
the opening for the neck, and the middle-seam are embroidered with
coloured silks. The horizontal stripes over the chest are reminiscences
of the frogs worn on the garments of the Turkish peoples.
An aba striped in white and black, chiefly worn by Bedouins in Syria,
is often seen beside the brown striped aba. But unicoloured, white, brown,
or dark blue abas are also much favoured. The material is wool of the
most various qualities.



Man's white cotton shirt with pointed sleeves.

This shirt is usually worn under the aba out of the sleeveholes of
which the long points of the shirt-sleeves project. These shirts are worn
from the southern parts of the Caucasus to E. Arabia.





Blue rough cotton woman's shirt with pointed sleeves.

The sleeves of this shirt are cut out of one piece, and not put together,
as is the case with the shirt shown on the previous plate. The seams
are often decorated with multicoloured silk stitches.
The native women of Jerusalem used to wear garments cut in a similar
fashion, but of huge dimensions. They were gathered in the ancient
Persian manner, and the upper sleeve-edges were tied together behind the
neck. This produced a very picturesque fold arrangement.

An.Len

巴勒斯坦



Woman's blue woollen garment with coloured floss-silk stitching.

This garment served as a shirt. It has the shape of the mashla, but
is longer, and closed at the breast. The seams are enlivened by coloured
silk stitches.

An.Len

小亚细亚




Dust-mantle from Smyrna.

This garment shows the form of the mashla, and is of cotton interwoven
with rough yellowish silk stripes. Net-like open-work on the sleeves.
Seams on chest and around neck of the mantle are stitched in the style
of the Asia Minor "state towels".