20世纪初的手绘世界民族服饰图鉴

An.Len

转自foxjin


北非摩洛哥






The djellabia or djellaba.

This hooded garment serves as an outer dress and replaces the burnoose
or sulham. It is usually made of rough wool, has brown-grey, or
grey and black stripes, and is mostly edged yellow or red with green and red
tassels. The Riff Kabyles wear unicoloured dark brown djellabias with
yellow braid and coloured tassels. Townsfolk favour blue cloth djellabias.
The braid is then often crimson. The "mokhasznia" (native gendarmes)
and travellers wear the djellabia over the haik.




The farasia.

This garment is a shirt-dress with wide sleeves, it is buttoned over the
chest. It is often belted, and made of light transparent stuff. Similary cut
garments are often worn by the wealthy in Morocco, are of cloth, and can
be buttoned all the way up in the same manner as the vests (sedria).
The favourite colours for this cloth garment, also called kaftan, are winered,
olive-green, light blue, or brown.
In Morocco weapons are suspended by particularly woven woollen
cords called "medshul". They are slung over the shoulder. The curved
dagger is known as kumia.

An.Len

北非阿尔及尔



Spahi officer's burnoose.

Red European cloth, trimmed with gold cord, braid and tassels. Corners
lined with coloured silk, front seams underlayed with the tricolore colours.
The usual N. African burnoose (also called "sulham" in Morocco) consists
of white wool or cotton. But black, brown, and blue ones are also worn.
Wealthy townsfolk wear cloth burnooses matching the colour of their
clothes. Vertically striped burnooses, usually in the natural white, grey,
or black wool are often seen in S. Algeria or Tunis.

An.Len

北非突尼斯



Kandura or gandura.

The kandura is usually made of haik material. Urban population,
in contradistinction to rural, favour a kandura of haik material dyed
wine-red and decorated with green or yellow borders.
Wealthy Tunisians wear a kandura made of European cloth over their
cloth suits matching the colour of the suit. Grey-blue, pink, and lilac-grey
are the popular colours. The silk braid is usually a shade or so darker
than the rest of the garment.

An.Len

西非多哥


Sleeveless tobe.

Characteristic garment of a Togo man; lower part of the garment is
widened by gores in the manner of the medieval albes. An oblong cloth
serves as cloak in W. Sudan; it consists of five or six narrow strips sewn
lengthwise. One of the cloths was 140 cm. wide and 210 cm. long. It is
worn loosely draped round the body.

An.Len

阿比西尼亚（埃塞俄比亚）




Woman's shirt, embroidered.

The Abyssinian women's shirts are made, like the shama, of doubly
folded soft cotton material. Opening for neck and sleeve ends are embroidered
with silk chain-stitching. Slanting trousers are worn with these
shirts, and are buttoned and laced tight beneath the calves down to the
ankle. They are embroidered up to the knee.


Shama and hood-cloak.

The shama is a large oblong shawl of soft white cotton, and is wrapped
about the wearer according to weather requirements. The hood-cloak is
a bournoose reduced in size and embroidered with coloured floss-silk in
the Abyssinian manner.

An.Len

埃及


Man's shirt (kalabia?)

Characteristic garment of the modern Egyptian population. Owing to
the insertion it is tighter under the arms than that of the following Plate.
The material is black cotton. Sserual, men's trousers, of blue cotton.
In Arabia they are called "libas" (according to Schweinfurt) . Cap with
blue silk tassel, called "tarbush" in Egypt.




Wide maris shirt (kamis) of white linen or cotton.

Worn in Egypt particularly by the Fellahin. as well as the tightsleeved
shirts. Is also dyed blue.





Binish. Cloth overcoat with wide sleeves, frequently slit below.

The binish, like the kaftan, is spread all over the Near East. Those
countries where it is chiefly worn are Egypt, W. Arabia, Syria, Asia Minor,
and Turkey. It is the upper garment of scholars and priests. It is usually
of a dark or grey colour, unlined. Instead of being lined it is faced with
quiet coloured silk.



Tob or sebleh, wide garment for women.

The material employed for this garment is usually a cotton fabric
dyed blue. The only ornamentation is edging around opening for the neck
and over breast-slit with coarse floss-silk stitching. Wealthy women wear
black cotton garments interwoven with silk stripes, or also taffeta and
watered-silk garments. Tob shaped garments are worn between Egypt,
and Mesopotamia.


"Err? Man's shirt, blue woollen fabric.

Characteristic garment of the modern Egyptian population.
Copied from an original.

An.Len

埃及与近东




Yclek. Woman s kaftan of flowered cotton print with ramie lining.

The better sort of women's yeleks are made of valuable silk fabrics.
Gold and silver brocade are also employed. The woman's kaftan is open
at the neck as far as the breast. It is provided with a number of buttons
and laces from the breast to the belt along the front seams in order to
fit it close to the waist, and has a high side slit to expose the wide trousers
worn by females (cf. PI. 40). The front part, which is often in the way,
is frequently hung over the lower arm. The yelek is girded with a cloth
shawl.
The shirt is worn under the yelek; a djubbeh or binish over it. These
garments are closer fitting, and usually more brilliant in colouring than
those of men. The woman's djubbeh is often made of velvet or silk,
and ornamented with gold braid and embroidery.

An.Len

古代埃及



Shirt garment from a grave of the New Kingdom (ca. 14-00 B. C).

This garment shows the simple shape of former oriental dress, and is
certainly identical with the kalasiris mentioned by Herodotus. It is made
of one piece folded in the middle and sewn at sides up to the armpit.
The material is fine linen. In the middle of the fold is a slit or round
opening for the neck. The kalasiris was always belted in such a manner
as to gather the folds in front.


Coptic tunic, found in a grave dating about 400 B. C.

Sleeve tunic of safron yellow wool with woven pattern resembling
tapestry work. The opening for the neck is placed horizontally like that
of the Roman tunic. The side seams, as well as those of the sleeves, are
trimmed with twisted woollen cord. Purple tunics were much favoured,
as well as those of natural colour wool. The latter had patterns of a brownviolet
tint. Coptic tunics often have vertical stripes next to the neck-opening
reaching to the nether hem in the ancient Roman fashion.

An.Len

北非摩洛哥

Djebba and kamis, or gamis.

The square djebba with horizontal opening at collar which can be
fastened by strings at side of neck is a characteristic garment of the
Moghreb. Like the gamis, it is only worn by men. The djebba in our
illustration is made of rough finely striped wool. But is also made of
white or blue cotton. The gamis is a djebba to which sleeves have been
added. It serves as shirt.

An.Len

北非阿尔及尔



Jewess' brocade dress, buttoned on shoulders, stomacher embroidered.

Muslin shirt of Algerian women. Often trimmed with coloured satin
stripes 5 cm. wide running over shoulders to the lower seam. Favourite
colours for these ribbons are: red, green, violet, or orange.






Tunic: habayah or djebba. Vest: ssedria or firmla. Trousers: sserual.

The characteristic underclothing of the Algerian rural population.
They are usually made of light white cotton material. The haik or burnoose
is worn over same when required.