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[男装设计] 各界品牌SPRING /Fall 07-09男装典藏(Renew*)1~34页

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2008-9-30 00:35
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发表于 2007-1-5 13:09:26 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式 来自: 广东深圳
1. Alessandro Dell'Acqua


June 28, 2006

The stated influences for Alessandro dell’Acqua's Spring collection were punk and military. The latter could be easily traced in details such as the epaulets on a seersucker shirt, the camouflage print on high-tops, and the silver chevrons pinned to the sleeve of a big olive-drab parka. The punk presence, on the other hand, was less obvious (pogo-friendly soundtrack notwithstanding).

Instead, a rather camp seam of glam rock ran through the clothes. A tiger peered out from T-shirts (it was printed on a Speedo too). Skinny voile-like blouses also featured animal prints. And narrow trousers were rolled up over shiny silver high-tops, affording a little Ziggy Stardust flava. Given that we saw a lot of that kind of thing during the last round of shows, its reappearance here didn't feel particularly fresh. More intriguing were the suggestions of volume. The bellows pockets on a trim, tan leather jacket, the full cut of the trousers on a white cotton-canvas suit—these were the more successful forays in dell'Acqua's spring campaign.

Alessandro Dell'Acqua07年的颜色我个人比较喜欢.
但是西装配短裤,个人不喜欢西装,因为太过正式啦.


























































































[ 本帖最后由 sunflower6300 于 2008-6-10 09:15 编辑 ]
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 楼主| 发表于 2007-1-5 13:13:35 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东深圳
2. Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen 2007春夏男裝秀展來自於極端的創意發想,就像是放浪不羈與銳利眼神的交錯,McQueen稱之為”Harlem”,而在他心目中”Harlem”不只是紐約周邊城市的代名詞,更像是作曲家Mahler於1971年改編自Thomas Mann小說”魂斷威尼斯”電影中的配樂,那樣地優雅世故、猶如世紀美少年般散發出令人著迷的紈褲華貴氣質。

裝飾於格紋西裝外套的是英國皇族禮服才有的誇耀大翻領設計,搭配的是有犬牙圖案的長褲;而細緻貴氣的手工英國刺繡則運用於另一件西裝外套和相同款式的西裝長褲,事實上整體系列均以精美優雅為主軸,所以在羊毛衫上你大可以看見的是璀璨花朵的刺繡,上半身狂野,下半身柔美,粉紅與藍色的亮眼搭配,展露出McQueen強調的”Harlem”式獨特風格,珍貴而大膽的老式華麗,不僅僅令人印象深刻,更是2007年春夏最時尚的精神指標!


Alexander McQueen07年的感觉是配合大趋势,走简洁和干净的路线.
看来明年干净的颜色和简单的设计会大行其道!连我喜欢的坏小子都变的
中规中举啦!

























































































)













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 楼主| 发表于 2007-1-5 13:18:22 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东深圳
3.Bottega Veneta

June 27, 2006

In the past, Tomas Maier has curiously tried to steer away from any connotations of sex appeal in his clothes. After this collection, he can run, but he can’t hide, because there was steam heat in these outfits. But what do you expect when you namecheck Burt Reynolds in all his matte-chested glory as the presiding spirit of your show? Back in the day, Burt knew how to rock a leisure suit, and it was the ease and convenience of that archetypal seventies look that Maier was attempting to channel for spring 2007. His challenge: How can you get away with wearing nothing under a jacket? His solution: a combo shirt-jacket inspired by that leisure suit. In laundered white linen, it already looked like next summer’s essential.

Maier also laundered the newness out of everything else in the collection, so that colors were sun-bleached and fabrics had a worn, papery look. It’s a bold move with clothes this expensive, but it’s already become a BV signature. And a sense of the familiar is something Maier is adamant about maintaining, so that men have time to understand and absorb his proposals. That’s why the shrunken, cropped jacket reappeared.

The use of random numbers as decoration was a new element, however. In the era of Lost, cryptic numerals have acquired a whole new weight, but Maier claimed he was merely fascinated by the graphics of an old typewriter. For that we can presumably credit the same resolutely cerebral side of his character that, amid the casual sensuality of the rest of his clothes, produced two items unlikely to get the wearer any action: a Peter Pan-collared shirt and a primly high-buttoning cardigan.


呵呵,好喜欢Bottega Veneta的设计,还有颜色.总之,自己看吧.
每个人的看法不同.








































































































































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发表于 2007-1-5 13:21:50 显示全部楼层 来自: 四川成都
好东东啊!!!:sese
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 楼主| 发表于 2007-1-5 13:29:32 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东深圳
4.Burberry Prorsum

June 26, 2006

Post-show, an elated Christopher Bailey said the key to his new collection could be found in the Waterboys song that accompanied the finale. As its title suggests, it celebrates the triumph of "Spirit" in the face of adversity, and it’s not hard to see how the words must resonate for Bailey, who in the past year has had to cope with the death of his partner. In fact, the clothes he designed for next spring were a celebration not only of spirit, but also of soul. The spirit soared watching the closing all-white passage, with its blinding patent trench and sparkling sequined sweater over full linen trousers. The soul was satisfied by the sense of mischievous inner life the clothes conveyed: the silver lamé shirt that peeked out from under a fine-gauge knit top, for instance, or the cashmere T-shirts in aqua, eau de nil, and pink that were worn insouciantly with the suits that dominated the collection.

Jackets were tailored right to the body, with broad, peaked shoulders, nipped waists and a flare of volume in the skirt that was carried over to full trousers with deep pleats. On the catwalk, the sleeves were pushed up to achieve the “disheveled elegance” Bailey feels is the true Burberry look (they made for a surprisingly winning nod to the Durannie eighties). The same off-kilter charm was evident in evening details showing up for day—shirts with pleated fronts, trousers with beaded stripes. And, taking a cue from his last women’s collection, Bailey offered coats with big buttons and a little swing. They’re likely to be as big a hit here as there.



Burberry Prorsum07年的感觉我好喜欢呀!呵呵特别是帽子还有风衣的颜色!
合我的胃口,看看有没有你中意的?


































































































  













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 楼主| 发表于 2007-1-5 13:35:35 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东深圳
5.Calvin Klein Collection

June 29, 2006

Somewhere in his misspent youth, Italo Zucchelli had a passion for all things New Wave. The angularity, the precision, the minimalist techno-edge that reduces the unnecessary... they've all been present and correct in Zucchelli's collections for Calvin Klein. For spring, he carved the lapel off a fitted black jacket, which he then showed on the kind of platinum blond boy who populated endless bands in the eighties. Shirts featured tiny button-down collars (another token of the eighties). One top had no collar but a little zip. Stir in the icy New Wave-y color palette and a burst of Siouxsie on the sound track and...well, you get the picture.

This was no mere exercise in nostalgia, though. As with Mod before it, the upside of New Wave has always been its intrinsic modernism, so it makes sense that Zucchelli, who is one of menswear's great modernists, would be drawn to it. And with this collection, he projected the idea into the future. The fabric technology alone would make the subject of a fine dissertation. Jackets in a fine mesh had a neoprenelike gleam. Even a more familiar material like linen was glazed to a seductive sheen for a suit in a bitter-chocolate shade. On that note, Zucchelli's color scheme was as intriguing as ever—aqua trousers, an eau-de-nil blouson, and a purple nylon trench counterpointed black, white, and gray.

This time around, the designer relaxed his body-conscious silhouette a little, except for an odd experiment with leggings that left nothing to the imagination. He said he found them sexy, but men who are more modest about leg-baring will be glad to know that he also produced the best shorts of the season.


呵呵,这个帖子继续,








































































































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发表于 2007-1-5 16:19:32 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东广州
不错!!!!谢谢!!!!!
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发表于 2007-1-5 17:41:18 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东广州
好东西,,顶.....................
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发表于 2007-1-6 10:43:50 显示全部楼层 来自: 福建泉州
顶——————————————————:huaxin :huaxin
不才的我啊!!!!!
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发表于 2007-1-6 10:57:33 显示全部楼层 来自: 广东广州
简单中内藏乾坤呀,
工作服量体定制!
男装衬衫T恤供款服务商贴牌 供样!
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